Shoe



March 7, 1939 s. SCHLESINGER ET AL 2,149,552

SHOE

Original Filed June 9, 1936 ATTORNEY.

ar. re

atenter-i SHQE Samuel Schlesinger, Brooklyn, and William Seidenberg, New York, N. Y.

Application June 9, 1936, Serial No. 84,282 Renewed .i'anuary 21, 1939 1 Claim.

This invention relates to shoes and is directed more particularly to that type of shoe wherein the upper is cut low over the instep, so as to position the throat of the instep relatively low. Shoe 5 structure of this character is commonly found in ladies shoes and more especially in opera pumps and other shoes with low cut uppers adapted to show the greater portion of the instep of the human foot when the latter is positioned there- 11. While many low cut shoes are provided with straps and other devices to permit them to be secured in place on the foot, numerous other types, notably the opera pump are totally lack ing in any fastening means but must depend upon a proper fitting of the shoe with respect to the foot and more particularly upon the close fitting of the throat of the upper over the instep of the wearer. Consequently, opera pumps are made to fit very closely at this part of the foot and in the majority of such shoes the fit is made so close for practical reasons as to cause discomfort to the wearer. This is particularly true with the feet of fleshy persons whose insteps are apt to bulge over the throat of the upper and not only cause .considerable discomfort, but detrimentally affect the health of the wearer.

As is well understood by orthopedists, the foot embodies a plurality of arches, when'considered in different directions, and these arches are maintained in proper positions in the normal foot by muscles, ligaments and tendons which are so associated with the bone structure that, when allowed to properly act, they retain the parts of such structure in correct relation.

. Experience has shown, however, that these muscles and ligaments lose their strength very rapidly when freedom of action is denied and particularly when excess pressure is localized. This is especially found to be the case when pressure is localized over the first metatarsal bone and over the first cuneiform for here the arches are the highest and itis through these bones that the leverage is applied to the great toe during walking and. in maintaining standin posture.

With these bones are associated numerous tendons and ligaments which are of primary importance to the foot structure and many of these tendons overlie the top of the foot. Here is found the so-called great tendon which, with associated smaller tendons and blood vessels and veins, extends down to the great toe. It is not located centrally of the foot, but is to one side thereof in proximity with the first metatarsal. Undue pressure of a shoe thereon will injure these tendons causing tenosynovitls or inflammation thereof. If this condition is allowed to persist, it will bring about mental disorders, fatigue, loss of proper carriage and ultimate serious and even ermanent danger to the foot structure.

It will be apparent from the foregoing that the piessure of a tight throat of a low cut upper will be applied to the human foot at a point where undue pressure is most undesirable and the effect of wearing such shoes can be attested to by any- 10 one who has worn them.

The effects of fatigue and discomfort incident to the wear of shoes of the character described has been long recognized in this art and various attempts have been made to ameliorate the condition. However, it appears that in the main the problem has been approached by the shoemaker rather than the orthopedist, and without a proper knowledge of the foot structure or the problem involved. For example, as hereinbefore stated, 20 when fleshy persons wear low cut shoes, it has been found that the foot tends to bulge at the throat of the shoe. The shoemaker has sought to ease this bulge slightly by making the medial portion of the throat of the shoe of a yielding nature, 25 so as to cushion the bulging fiesh. However, the.

- easing of the throat of the shoe in this medial line does not meet the anatomical requirements for the reason that the pressure which does the most damage to the foot structure and causes the 30 most discomfort is not in the medial line of the shoe, but rather at a considerable lateral distance therefrom and in the region of the first metatarsal, and at this portion of the throat of the upper no definite relief of the pressure has heretofore 35 been provided.

, With theforegoing considerations in mind, the object of the present invention is to so construct a low cut shoe that it will yield not only to minimized bulging of the foot and ease pressure that 40 may thereby result in the medial portion of the throat, but to so constitute the entire throat of the shoe and the adjacent portions of the upper at the sides thereof as to preclude the applica-v tion of undesirable localized pressure upon the 45 great tendon and associated ligaments and veins, which overlie the foot in the vicinity of the first metatarsal and first cuneiform bones thereof. By thus easing the pressure on the great tendon and associated muscular and circulatory system of the 50 foot, greater freedom of action is permitted in the latter with consequent comfort to the wearer and elimination of harm to foot structure as a whole.

Thus, in practically carrying out the present 55 invention, we provide across the entire widthof the throat of the instep of the shoe upper a yieldable elastic binding, so associated with the upper that said binding is'well adapted to stretch or ve in a lateral direction and we extend this yieldable elastic binding not only across the entire width of the throat, but carry it back for a distance along the upper edge of the shoe from the throat, to therebyproduce at the forward portion of the upper edge of the upper an elastic section which will conform to the foot which tends to bulge and will also yield against undue pressure on the great tendon and associated muscular and circulatory elements of the foot. As a result, the shoe of this invention may be worn with comfort not only with respect to the fleshy portion of the foot, but also with respect to the muscular circulatory and bone structure thereof.

An important feature of the invention resides in the fact that a shoe may be made in accordance with the present invention, which, to the casual observer, does not depart from conventional lines and which, without close inspection, will have all the appearance of a conventional shoe. This is of particular importance in the fitting of conservative dressers who do not care to wear footwear which has the appearance of a novelty, but prefer rather to adorn the feet with smart, conservative styles. v

Features of the invention, other than those adverted to, will be apparent from the hereinafter detailed description and claim when read in conjunction with the accompanying drawing.

The accompanying drawing embodies one illustrative showing of the invention, but the contruction'shown therein is to be understood as 11.- lustrative, only, and not as defining the limits of the invention.

Figure 1 is a side elevation of a shoe embodying the present invention.

Figure 2 is a plan view of the shoe of Figure 1.

Figure 3 is a fragmental plan view showing the shoe partially completed.

Figure 4 is a section on the' line 4-4 of Figure 2.

Figure 5 is asectionon the line 5-5 of Figure 2.

Figure 6 is a fragmental, vertical longitudinal section through the shoe showing. the manner in which the same is fabricated,

Figure '7 shows the same invention incorporated in a shoe ofa different style.

For the purpose of graphic description, we have shown the invention in. Figures 1-6 as incorposeamed up the back to form the conventionalback seam, there isfirst positioned across the throat of the shoe and on the inside of the blank, a strip of composition material'indicatedat 2, which is .pasted or glued into place to keep the upper from stretching across the throat of the shoe during the course of manufacture. A piece of elastic cord 3, preferably of circular elastic covered by a circular mitted fabric envelope, is next laid about the throat d of the instep of the upper, as indicated in Figures 3, d, in such manner as to extend well back along the sides to points roughly indicated by the reference character 5. This elastic cord is positioned, so that it abuts against the upper edge of the upper at the throat and at portions thereof leading back from the throat and it is stitched in this edge abutting relation bystitches indicated at 6, and shown best in Figures 4 and 6. These stitches can be accomplished by hand, but are commercially carried out on a zigzag machine with appropriate attachments, so that the cord 3 is stitched to-the upper by stitches which simultaneously wrap the cord and extend transversely to the longitudinal axis of the cord. In other words, these stitches form an envelope about the cord and simultaneously secure it to the upper in such manner that the stitches will not interfere with the stretching of the cord within reasonable limits. The stitches 6 may be made so as to pass merely through the upper or, if desired, may pass also through the part 2, as shown in Figure 4. The ends of the cord 3 may be left loose, as shown in Figure 6, tobe later covered by the lining.

After the cord 3 has been sewed into place, as t stated, the remaining portion of the upper edge of the upper is bound with French binding or cording I in the usual manner, shown best in Figure 5, but, instead of carrying this cording all the way to the throat of the instep, the cording is carried forwardly only approximately to the points 5 referred to and is then folded inwardly over the upper edge of the upper and into the interior thereof, as shown at 8 in Figure 6, so as to coven the ends of the cord 3 and leave finished edges 9 exposed at the top of the upper.

\ In'practice, the French binding or cording 1 may be made the same color as the 'co'rd 3 and the stitches 6, so that, when the shoe is on the foot, the finished edges 9 cannot be readily seen, but, on the contrary,it will appear as though the binding was continuous around the top of the upper, whereas, and as a matter of fact, the throat and forward portions of the sides of the upper edge are elastically bound, while the remaining portion of the upper edge of the upper is inelastically bound.

After the French binding has been applied, as stated, a strip of. bias tape I0 may be carried around the inside of the upper just below the upper edgeof the binding 1, as shown in Figure 6, and just below the cord 3,- as shown in Figure 4. This bias tape is preferably glued in place and serves to cover the free edge of the French bind- The foregoing operations having been carried out, any appropriate lining is sewed into the shoe. For the purpose of illustration, we have shown a leather lining portion II and a fabric lining portion I2.

The operations described complete the formation of the upper and it can be lasted in any way common to the art.

When a shoe is made in the manner described, it is found that the upper edge of the upper is, through incorporation of the elastic binding therein, as specified, rendered resilient and yielding at the throat of the instep and also at the sides of the instep for some little distance back from the throat and to such extent that it will yield to the operations and muscles of the bone structure of the foot and will not unduly press upon the-circulatory system of such structure. A shoe thus made may be worn with comfort and without detrimental effects.

We have thus far described the invention as incorporated in an opera pump, but it will be understood that it can also be incorporated in a shoe with a strap or lace type which has a low cut instep throat. An example of another form' of shoe in which the invention may be used to advantage is shown in Figure 7. Here the elastic cord 3 is incorporated in the throat of the upper and along the sides thereof back to the points 5 and the remaining free edges of the upper, as well as the edges of strap It, may be bound with the usual French binding or cording.

The foregoing detailed description sets forth the invention in its preferred, practical form, but the invention is to be understood as fully commensurate with the appended claim.

Having thus fully described the invention, what we claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

A shoe upper provided with an elastic binding extending across the throat and back along the sides of the upper edge of the upper for a distance back of the throat and arranged for the greater portion of its length in edge to edge abutting relation to the free edge of the upper with the ends of said elastic binding turned into the interior of the upper, stitches securing said binding to the upper and extending transversely of the longitudinal axis of the elastic binding in every plane including such axis, and a non-elastic binding extending around the remainder of the free edge of the upper and overlapping the ends of the elastic binding and permanently secured to the upper.

SAMUEL SCI-ILESINGER. WILLIAM SEIDENBERG. 

